After years of designing travel to some of the world’s most remote places, I thought I understood what “off the beaten track” really meant. Papua New Guinea challenged that in the best possible way.
Over Easter 2026, I travelled aboard SH Minerva with Swan Hellenic, this time with my husband and our two daughters (12 and 8). It was equal parts excitement and curiosity… with a small sense of stepping into the unknown.
That, as it turns out, is exactly where PNG shines.
A Different Pace from the Start
From the moment we arrived, everything felt different. Lush jungle, dense tropical air, and a distinct sense of being far removed from the familiar.
SH Minerva quickly became our calm base. With just over 150 guests, it feels intimate without being restrictive. Elegant, comfortable, and purpose-built for exploration rather than distraction.
Swan Hellenic includes the charter flights from Brisbane to the Solomon Islands/Honiara and from Jayapura to Bali as part of the cruise package, whereas most other expedition operators require guests to arrange and pay for these flights separately. This represents a significant upfront saving and is one of the key advantages of choosing Swan Hellenic for a cruise to PNG and Asia.
Expedition Cruising as a Family
Travelling with kids on an expedition cruise was something I was genuinely curious about and it exceeded expectations.
Both girls engaged in their own way. My 12-year-old loved the lectures, science lab work-shops and learning, while my 8-year-old threw herself into everything from kayaking and spotting dolphins to collecting volcanic rocks and learning how to open coconuts.
It wasn’t just a holiday; It was immersive, hands-on learning. The kind that stays with you.
SH Minerva is one of the few expedition ships that offers genuinely comfortable family cabin options, accommodating 3–4 guests. This made a real difference, and we weren’t the only family onboard. There were several others with children (generally 8+), which added a lovely dynamic to the trip.
Stories That Bring a Place to Life
A defining part of this journey was the onboard expedition team.
Captain Frank, who served with the Australian Navy in Papua New Guinea during WWII, shared personal stories from his time in the region. Hearing those accounts while anchored in the very bays where events unfolded was incredibly powerful.
It shifted the experience completely. The landscape became layered and meaningful; not just beautiful, but deeply human. It resonated across generations. Even the girls connected with the idea that history wasn’t something distant. It happened right where we were.
Alongside this, anthropologist Jackie Windsh brought a completely different, but equally fascinating perspective. Her passion for human history and culture was infectious. Her talks on Austronesian navigation were a standout. She spoke about how early seafarers intentionally settled these islands using twin-hulled voyaging canoes and outrigger boats. They were guided by stars, ocean swells, and even bird movements. Not drifting, but navigating with remarkable precision and deep environmental knowledge.
It changed how we saw the ocean entirely and gave a much deeper appreciation for the cultures we were visiting.
Papua New Guinea: Raw and Unfiltered
PNG feels untouched in a way that’s becoming increasingly rare. In many of the remote communities we visited, life remains largely traditional. It was simple, resourceful, and closely connected to the land and sea.
Rabaul, set within a vast volcanic caldera, is dramatic and very much alive. Mount Tavurvur a constant presence in the background.
In villages like Baku, we were welcomed with music and dancing that quickly became spontaneous and shared. And when weather prevented a landing at Garove Island, the community came to us instead boarding the ship for an afternoon of music, laughter, and genuine connection that felt completely unplanned.
Along the Sepik River and in the Tami Islands, life unfolds much as it has for generations. It’s not curated or polished and that’s exactly what makes it so compelling.
Life Onboard
After full days ashore, returning to the ship felt like finding balance again.
Everything runs seamlessly, allowing you to stay present in the experience. Evenings were often spent sharing stories of the day. What surprised us, what stayed with us, what made us pause and reflect.
And then there are the small, defining moments: walking with a local mother and daughter to church one morning, spotting dolphins from the Swan’s Nest, snorkelling among vibrant tropical fish, or watching the sun set behind volcanic silhouettes.
A Final Reflection
As we approached Jayapura in Indonesia, the visible plastic pollution along the shoreline was a confronting contrast to the pristine environments we had experienced.
In response, guests and crew came together for a spontaneous clean-up. It was simple, but meaningful.
It was a reminder that travel like this is not just about discovering extraordinary places, but also about understanding their realities and challenges.
Final Thoughts
Papua New Guinea isn’t polished- it’s raw, complex, and deeply rewarding. A place that engages you, challenges you, and stays with you long after you leave.
For us, travelling as a family made it even more meaningful. It wasn’t just about where we went, but what we experienced together.
And through the stories of people like Captain Frank and Jackie and all the wonderful expedition staff, it became more than a journey through place… but one through history, culture, and connection.
Ready to find your own extraordinary?
Papua New Guinea rewards those who plan carefully. From choosing the right expedition ship to timing your visit around cultural festivals and weather windows. Getting those details right makes all the difference. If you’d like guidance from someone who has been there, we’re happy to help.
Get in touch with the Eclipse Travel team and we’ll start putting something together for you.
